My temporary trial mod of three years ago is still in place as follows:-
You have a choice; to convert to 76 design mod the baffles as follows:-
Remove wadding as this is no longer needed.
Wrap some Klingerite type gasket material around the holes on the back section. The length is critical and requires measuring the distance from the back of the exhaust to the inner baffle plate (and this varies with each pipe).
Block the holes at the inlet end of the baffle - I used a piece of pipe up the inside of the original baffle tube as far as the blank and tapped the end over to stop it falling out.
Seal using high temp silicone - this matters because chamber C on this exhaust is actually under pressure (not on the earlier types). In my case the gap around the the end of the baffle was about 2mm and if you work out the cross sectional area it comes to more than the dia of the transfer tube from A to C - thus most of the gas comes out the gap - loudly!
Gas now flows correctly from A to C to B where some enters the baffle to exit to the rear and some goes via the bypass tube to do the same on the other of the paired exhausts.
My brother-in-law was going to produce some correct baffles in stainless steel but a recent redundancy has put paid to that.
A picture is worth a thousand words so have a look at this:-
If you wanted to run as per the earlier designs (Z1/A/B) forget all of the above, leave the wadding in place and simply blank off both of the internal transfer pipes (A to C and the shorter C to B)- I never tried this as the bike runs and sounds perfect as it now is.
Andy
