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cct - options

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69chris
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cct - options

#1 PostAuthor: 69chris » Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:19 pm

hi guys......its me again :D

well i think iv found my rattly engine problem.......... stuck tensioner !! not really a huge suprise after being un-used for 16 years :lol:

whilst its apart i thought id see if the cct off my old zrx11 engine would fit as its a more compact, ratchet type jobbie - it bolted straight on and took up the tension perfectly!!

i know this is a common mod on the z1300's (well, a zzr11 cct but its the same thing) but has anyone used one in a gpz motor ??

cant see why it wont work... but as id rather not end up with bent valves i thought id ask of you guys opinions :D

thanks folks :)

lta01
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#2 PostAuthor: lta01 » Fri Jul 15, 2011 7:55 pm

Chris,

can't speak for whether ZRX or ZZR cct is suitable for your GPZ, and I'm no expert on GPZ's, but I do know that when using aZZR cct in Z1300 the spring has to be cut down a bit to reduce the tension on the chain and prevent premature guide roller wear.

Note however that Z1300 has a plastic roller so excessive tension might not be a problem for your GPZ engine.

Apart from that, its the no 1 recommended mod for all Z1300 owners, and I have no complaints.
He who dies with the most toys wins .

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Al
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#3 PostAuthor: Al » Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:26 pm

You can drill, tap, and insert a six mil bolt and nut as below if you want to keep the standard tensioner.
It still acts the same way but the bolt if tightened periodically will stop the cross slide from backing off as mine frequently did.
Costs nothing and works fine now, and i dont get that hideous jammering noise when pulling away with too little revs!!


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AL
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Ginger Bear
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#4 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Sun Jul 17, 2011 11:12 am

I like Al's solution, cheap & simple.

I've already bought one of these from Jeff; http://www.z1enterprises.com/Cam-Chain- ... 0-371.aspx

Good price too & unlikely to attract any import duty. :up
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69chris
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Location: swindon, wiltshire

#5 PostAuthor: 69chris » Mon Jul 18, 2011 12:40 pm

zorded wrote:You can drill, tap, and insert a six mil bolt and nut as below if you want to keep the standard tensioner.
It still acts the same way but the bolt if tightened periodically will stop the cross slide from backing off as mine frequently did.
Costs nothing and works fine now, and i dont get that hideous jammering noise when pulling away with too little revs!!


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AL


thats neat...................... and cheap :D ....................which is about all i can manage at the mo :lol:

how long is the 6mm bolt ? does it just go in and sit against the spring ??
cheers :)

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Al
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#6 PostAuthor: Al » Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:05 pm

I can measure the bolt if you want me to but cant remember what the length is off the top of my head but about 25 mm ish.

It sits inside the spring and acts on the boss on the back of the cross slide such that the cross slide is not impaired in its normal operation.

You will need an 'O' ring beneath the nut or it drips and the tube nut that you can see it threaded into is very thin walled. When i get a minute i will have mine built up with weld and then re- drill and tap.

Thanks Barry for the original idea.


AL
1981 J1


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