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530 front sprox J / GPZ / Unitrak types
Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:35 am
Author: Al
Looking for a 530 front sprocket with or without off-set for J-type motors with 17 teeth on it please.
AL
Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:05 am
Author: simon gilling
530 is the way to go, my Z1 has had 5310 X-ring on for over 10 years, works much better thatn 630. I use either Z650 16 tooth or an 18 tooth of a kawasaki VN800.
I would suggest a trawl through :-
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue
When I last started to put together a guide, I found quite a few options for the 'J' motor sprocket.
good luck
Simon
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:25 pm
Author: Al
Thanks Simon. Had a good look through. The early ones Z1 A B 900 A4 / Z650 use a Z13 format for the front spline, J / GPZ / Uni uses a Z12 format for the spline.
AL
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:39 pm
Author: j.b
i think zzr11 is the way to go for 530 with a little offset
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1200
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:58 am
Author: Al
Thanks j.b that may well be the answer.
AL
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 11:05 am
Author: floydsz1
I got a 530 17 tooth offset sprox for my J from jeff at z1enterprises.
http://www.z1enterprises.com/530-SS635- ... t-398.aspx
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:55 pm
Author: big green bus
JTF527 this is the one I used on my Gpz1100
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 9:39 pm
Author: Al
ZX10 B1- B3 Tomcat
JTF 527 " with 19mm off-set"
http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/1183
JTF 528 "with 24mm off-set"
Thank you gents plenty of suitable alternatives to be had if you know where to look.
Thanks again
AL
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:26 pm
Author: zed1015
zorded wrote:ZX10 B1- B3 Tomcat
JTF 527 " with 19mm off-set" AL
Beware!
The true offset measurement is that 19mm MINUS the width of the actual teeth which would make it around 12mm ish ?
Offset should be measured from inner to inner or outer to outer face, not inner to outer as in pic.
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:40 pm
Author: Al
Youre right Rob and it was me that introduced the subject of off-set with regard to that measurement.
Also relevant is the thickness of the core as i have found out. Not all these sprockets have the same dimension there which leaves the splined stub protruding a little and the sprocket even when tightened slops about on the output shaft causing it to need a spacer behind it which is what i have had to do.
Have also discovered that my sprockets are not in line either.
Meaning; no amount of spacing at either end will put them in the same plane!!!
AL
Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:25 pm
Author: zed1015
There should be a sprocket nut that is recessed at the rear allowing it to tighten on the sprocket and not the spline ( I have a couple on the GPZ and 1000a gearbox's)
There is usually also a corresponding tab washer in that situation which locates on the spline and folds on to the nut to lock it.
You can use more than one tab washer at a time to 'shim' out the nut if the spline still interferes with just the one washer on.
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 9:54 pm
Author: Al
The J has a bolt in the centre. The sprocket core must extend beyond the end of the splines. The bolt has a fixed broad shoulder washer and beneath it a large spreader washer.
The non J specific front sprockets appear to have a thinner section at the core hence the need to pull the sprocket outward, flush or beyond the spline shaft using a spacer behind it.
At least that is what i have found with the sprocket that i have.
All's well though as i can now get a wider rear section tyre in it
AL
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 10:45 pm
Author: zed1015
Ah! Yes.
Was forgetting about the J's bolt.
Would be a good idea to turn down an old sprocket and make a splined spacer washer to make up the difference.