The ltd tank from the seventies has no fuel gauge float access under the tank. The following tanks are interchangeable: CSR M1 - 1981 CSR M2 - 1983 LTD K1 - 1981 LTD K2 - 1983 Any KZ1000P Police bike up to and including 2001 They all used variants of the 51001 tank - the part number changes referrin...

Asking on someone else's behalf - will pass on details if you have a spare wiring loom.

You can still buy these new (the whole fuse box assemby with loom) for about £25 - I bought one for my CSR last year.

Part number:

26004-1011

Gone and lost the small round brass mesh that sits above the bowl in the Z1b fuel tap. Placed it carefully on the bike lift, blinked and it was gone. If anyone has a spare or knows where to get one I'd much appreciate it. Don't s'pose they come in a fuel tap repair kit do they ? If it's flat and ro...

I'm most likely going to be selling this one way or another. It's not much of a project as there's little to do to it - it's got loads of new paint and parts. And had a recent full engine rebuild - all new everything that wears out. Had a crank rebuild and balance job by Chris Applebee back in Novem...

StephenW wrote:Frame number is: JKAKZCC13BB503821

Please advise?

Stephen

Thanks Stephen - unfortunately that's from a 1981 KZ1000-C - and accomodates the older and better 1050 engine - these were used for the original CHIPs bikes.

Mine has the J engine.

I have a frame, but donot know what bike it is. Forward the range of frame numbers you require and I will check the number on my frame tomorrow. all the Stephen If it's a KZ1000 CSR M1/M2 frame (American import) it'll start with: JKAKZCM If it's a Z1000 K1/K2 frame it'll start with: KZT00K Cheers.

I need a good one as mine has rotted through around the kickstand area - and probably elsewhere as yet unseen.

Don't need the swinging arm or fork yolks.

Any time you use water or a water based solution it's best to use boiling water. That way when you come to tip it out the heat imparted into the steel helps dry out the residual moisture quicker.

These peeps are in Oxfordshire but you could courier the parts if you didn't fancy making the trip.

http://www.fjpayne.com/machining-servic ... der-blocks

When I did the rebuild on my KZ1000 M1 I took the position that I didn't want to have to strip the engine down a second time just to save myself the price of a bearing that was OK at the time. So I replaced: All of the rubber o'rings and oil seals and, obviously the gaskets. All of the bearings - ev...

Ally most definitely does conduct - although you may need to remove some of the natural oxidation. Are the bars isolated with rubber mounts? That'll be your problem if there is no bypassing wire, I reckon.

Thanks Zorded. That's been pretty much my take on it too. I tried ringing around today but none of the bikes shops were interested in taking it on. As I've got no space to strip it down at the moment and have already spent a fortune on it I'm not overly keen to keep putting money into the pit. The g...

I had the Z1000 H which I think is similar to the G. As I recall it had a ballast resistor slung between the coils - that played up once or twice causing similar problems. Worth checking the connections there as a matter of course.

Unfortunately that's not applicable in my case - it's been rebored to the +1 OS bore with new pistons and rings. Wasn't cheap either as I had to get some from the USA as these part numbers are no longer active. I've subsequently learnt that the later police bikes use the same pistons and the same cy...